Find the Right Foundation Shade

Applying an undetectable base is the first step in achieving a gorgeous face. Here’s help for picking your perfect hue.

If you’re shopping at a department store…

Swipe three possible matches on your lower cheek or jawline (the shade should closely match your neck as well as your face). Take a mirror and head toward a window or go outside so you can see the hues in natural light. The one that fades into your skin without much blending is the winner, says celebrity makeup artist Carol Shaw, creator of LORAC Cosmetics.

If you’re shopping at the drugstore…

The trick is to first determine if you are pale, medium, or dark. Once you know your skin tone, use the bottle shade name as a guideline. Pale skin tends to have some redness, so it’s best to stay away from pink-toned foundation shades. Look for a hue labeled beige or buff to neutralize ruddiness. Girls in the middle of the skin-tone spectrum have light beige, olive, or tan complexions with warm undertones. Asian skin also falls into this category since it has a lot of yellow in it. Stick with shades labeled warm, medium, or golden. Dark skin can range from as light as cafe au lait to as deep as ebony. To prevent a grayish cast, go for colors like tan, sable, or chestnut. Also, African-American women often have oily skin, which can cause their base to oxidize and appear darker when it mixes with oil, so try a foundation that is slightly lighter than your complexion.

Key Application Tips

1. Clean fingers can provide the sheerest, most natural effect since the warmth of your hands helps to “melt” the base onto your skin, says NYC makeup artist Troy Surratt. It’s best to use your fingers with liquid and cream foundation formulas.

2. Sponges provide more coverage and are good for blending cream-to-powder or thicker liquid foundations. Tap, don’t rub, the base into your face with the sponge for an even finish, says London makeup artist Jemma Kidd, founder of Jemma Kidd Make Up.

3. A foundation brush gives a heavier, more velvety finish because you’re literally painting on a liquid or cream base, says celebrity makeup pro Bobbi Brown, CEO of Bobbi Brown Cosmetics. This is ideal if you’re going for a very polished look.

Wacky Beauty Tips That Work

Toothpaste on a zit? Vinegar in your hair? Some of that ridiculous-sounding advice you've heard in passing is really right on.

1) Powder Your RootsIf your hairline starts to look greasy, dig up a big, fluffy makeup brush, and dip it into a pot of loose powder. Tap it once on the back of your hand to remove the excess, then dust it over your roots. It mops up oil and blends into your strands, so no one will know you didn't shower.

2) Scent Strands with PerfumeSpray a light shot of fragrance into the bristles. Run it through strands from roots to ends and your hair will smell amazing throughout the day.

3) Cure Calluses with VaselineSlather on the petroleum jelly, and put on socks before bed to dissolve tough calluses overnight.

4) Spot-Treat SmudgesDip a cotton swab in eye-makeup remover, and trace it along your lids to erase any slipups or goofs when there's no time to redo your whole look.

5) Fix a Flushed FaceIf you turn red and stay that way after exercising (like seriously red for hours, even though you're healthy and hydrated), take an antihistamine like Benadryl when you leave the gym to reduce redness.

6) Soften Your Bod with AvocadoTake a ripe avocado, remove the pit and skin, and mash it up in a bowl. Slather it all over your body, let it sit for 20 minutes, then rinse off. Your skin will be sooo soft — avocado is a natural moisturizer.

7) Super-Glue a NailInstead of tearing off your nail when it breaks, put a tiny dab of Super Glue over the split, and paint a generous layer of your favorite nailpolish shade over it. Go for an opaque option (like red, purple, or coral) to camouflage and seal the crack.

8) Use Makeup Remover on Stubborn LipstickDon't try to rub off red lipstick (which makes it smear across your mouth — not so sexy). Instead, take a cotton ball or tissue, dip it in makeup remover, and just dab to erase the dark stain fast.

9) Tame Brows with Eye CreamPat any kind of rich eye cream over brows to help keep them hydrated and banish those icky white specks that look like dandruff.

10) Buff with Baking SodaIf you find yourself streaking (not glowing) after applying self-tanner, put some baking soda on a loofah, and scrub away the stripes.

11) Brush on Hair SprayFor the final step of your blow-dry, spray hair spray onto your brush, and run it through strands from roots to tips. This way, your do isn't so plastered and stiff but still holds volume and shine.

12) Boost Body Lotion with Baby OilIf you're craving shiny legs that aren't greasy, blend a drop of baby oil into your normal body lotion for extra luster.

13) Dab Essential Oil on a HangnailPut on apricot oil, the kind found in health-food stores, to protect cuticles from turning rough and raggedy.

14) Quell a Cold Sore with CreamWhen a cold sore is coming on, dab a bit of thick moisturizer, like Aquaphor, over it to prevent it from getting worse.

15) Freeze Your EyelinerIf the tip of your eyeliner pencil crumbles and smears on your lids, store the liner in the freezer for 15 minutes before use so the tip is firm and goes across your skin smoothly.

16) Use Toothpaste on a ZitUse just a pea-size amount. Let sit for 15 minutes to absorb the oil so the pimple won't get more clogged, then wash off.

17) Heat Up Your CurlerIf you have stick-straight lashes, try blasting your metal eyelash curler with a hair dryer for a couple seconds to heat it up so your lashes bend more easily. And use a waterproof mascara. The formula dries faster than other mascaras, so it sets the curl more effectively.

18) Use Soap Without WaterYou know those fancy bars that are actually too pretty to use? Toss them in your underwear or tee-shirt drawers to make your skin smell delicious.

19) Groom Brows with a ToothbrushMist an (unused!) toothbrush or eyebrow comb with hair spray to help flatten and tame unruly brows.

20) Put Diaper-Rash Cream on Dry SpotsSlather on a thick layer of diaper-rash cream to heal cracked elbows and feet.

21) Lubricate Your LashesAn easy way to draw attention to your eyes without putting on a pile of makeup is to comb petroleum jelly lightly through the tips of eyelashes to get a sexy, subtle sparkle.

22) Steamroll FlyawaysSpray on hair spray, then roll the can over your strands. The round bottle fits the curved shape of your head, locks in the spray, and flattens out frizz.

23) Spike Lotion with BronzerIf you don't have time to book a self-tanning session, mix a few pumps of body bronzer with regular hand lotion and pat it on your legs for a gradual dose of sexy, beachy color.

24) Air-Dry Your CurlsLet your hair dry indoors before going out in the cold. The curls will be really bouncy and piecey-perfect.

25) Press a Tea Bag on SplotchesIf your skin is sensitive or just looking irritated and puffy for some reason, steep a bag of green tea for a minute or two, let it cool down, and dab it over your face. The antioxidants in the tea take down inflammation.

26) Shave with ConditionerRan out of shaving cream? Do double duty by coating your stems with a thick hair conditioner. It softens the hair so it's easier to shave off and makes legs feel amazingly silky.

27) Amp Shine with VinegarMix one part vinegar with four parts carbonated water, and soak dry hair. Leave on for 15 minutes before you shampoo to lock in shine and combat dullness.

28) Exfoliate Your PitsIf your underarms start to look dry and flaky, an easy trick is to exfoliate them with a gentle face scrub to keep that skin pretty when going sleeveless.

29) Customize Your Body LotionInstead of shelling out for an expensive perfumed body product, you can make your own by pouring a few drops of fragrance into any scent-free lotion. Rub it on-the scent will last for hours.

30) "Brush" with MouthwashIf you're too wiped out after a late night of partying to clean your teeth, rinse with water and mouthwash, then use a dry toothbrush on the area where your teeth hit your gums.

31) Make an Egg-White MaskTo revive tired, dull skin without hitting the spa table, try this: Crack open an egg in a bowl, separate the yolk, and use the egg whites to make a face mask. The proteins help to heal and restore skin's moisture. Leave it on for five minutes, and rinse off.

32) Dry Sensitive Skin with T.P.Instead of drying your face with a scratchy towel, pat with toilet paper-it's ultrasoft on delicate skin (and bums!).

Cheap but Chic Beauty Tricks

It's a new season, but you don't need a ton of new products to look your absolute hottest. Behold, ways to rework your basics.

Now that fall is almost here, you’re probably feeling like it’s time to switch up your style a little. Good news: While you might have to rotate your closet to stay on trend, your makeup bag is basically all set. A lot of what you already have on hand (summer powder, your favorite gloss) can be used in new ways to create sexy, updated looks. The trick is to make your products work harder for you — who knew bronzer could double as blush? — and follow the tricks of makeup artists. Here, they share cool tips for getting extra mileage out of what you own for a very sexy effect.

Hotter Lips

Turn old into new! Instead of buying all new lipsticks, layer your existing shades to create fun fall options. Combine brown and pink to make a sultry rose, red and purple for plum, and coral and red for fuchsia.

Make your red lipstick racier. Apply pressed powder in between coats to intensify your everyday red lipstick. “The powder pulls out the oil from the lipstick, so you’re left with a deep, matte stain, which is exactly the kind of effect you want right now,” says Chantel Miller, MAC senior makeup artist. Her pick: MAC Select Sheer/ Pressed Powder, $21.

Outline your pucker with a brow pencil. To prevent your bold lip color from creeping past the corners, “rim your mouth with a flesh-colored brow pencil — its waxy formula is great at preventing any smudging,” says Matin, Neutrogena cosmetic-science expert.

Pat foundation over your lips. The nude, mod lip is the balance to this season’s rich colors. You don’t even need any lipstick to pull it off. “Just dip a makeup sponge in foundation, press it to your lips, and let it dry for a few seconds,” says Shane Paish, Dior global makeup adviser. “Finish it off with a clear lip gloss to add some shine, and you’re good to go.” Dior Addict Ultra Gloss Reflect in Tulle, $24.50, is great for this trick.

Fresh, Flawless Skin

Rub face primer on your body. Skin-revealing dresses are still in for fall, so your legs and arms need to shine. The pros smooth on regular makeup primer. “Primers contain light diffusers that even out and enhance your skin tone,” explains Miller. “So it’s great to apply them anywhere you want to draw extra attention.” We like Lancôme’s La Base Pro, $42.

Swirl cherry lip gloss on your cheeks. Dick Page, artistic director for Shiseido the Makeup, recommends using bright red gloss or balm on your apples to enhance your natural glow. “You can layer on more or less to get the exact level of rosiness that you want,” he says. Try Nivea’s Cherry Tinted Lip Care, $2.99.

Trade bronzer for blush. To get the chiseled cheekbones from the catwalks, sweep bronzer (instead of powder blush) onto the hollows of the cheeks. “This creates shadows and depth so your cheekbones stand out more,” notes Paish. You also can use a darker shade of powder that’s left over from summer.

“Paint” on your foundation. Models looked especially airbrushed on the fall runways. To get the look: Use a makeup brush to put on liquid foundation. “The bristles evenly distribute the product, so you get this soft veil of coverage,” says Miller. When going over tricky areas (like under the eyes or around the nose), squeeze the tip to flatten the edge to smooth out lines. Every few days, remember to wash your brush with shampoo to remove buildup.

Instantly Alluring Eyes

Maximize your blush. Take a creamy rose blush, and apply it in a half-moon shape under your brow bone and over the tops of your cheekbones. “You’ll get a subtle sheen that draws attention to your eyes and makes your face glow,” explains Page.

Tap lip gloss under your brows. Sounds crazy, but patting on a soft, shimmery pink gloss helps highlight and lift your eyes, says Paish. Use a nonsticky formula (so your lashes don’t get stuck!), and blend in.

Wear contrasting eye-shadow colors. It’s a hot trend for fall, but just work with what you already have. Apply a bright, intense hue (like purple) on your upper lids, then drag a softer hue (pearly green) along your lower lash line, recommends Page.

Put bronzer on your lashes. Comb loose bronze powder through lashes instead of mascara. “You’ll get a subtle sparkle that’s so sexy for night since it catches the light,” says Miller. One swipe should do it — you don’t want any excess flakes to fall under your eyes. Try MAC Pigment Powders, $19.50.

Seasonless Beauty Secrets

Some makeup tips are so good, they work any time of the year.

DEFINE YOUR BROWS. Use mascara to accentuate your shape and conceal any patchy gaps. We like working with Estée Lauder Sumptuous Bold Volume Lifting Mascara, $19.50, since it has a mousselike texture.

CONCEAL DARK CIRCLES. Dust a thin line of taupe shadow under your lower lashes to offset any bluish under-eye circles, says Matin. “It’s an insider trick if you’re running low on concealer,” he adds. Try Neutrogena Nourishing Eye Duo in Iced Coffee, $8.49.

PLUMP YOUR LIPS. Sparkly eye shadow dabbed in the center of your lips gives the effect of fullness. “The shimmer draws light, so your lips seem to bow out naturally,” explains Miller. We like Laura Mercier Eye Colour in Primrose, $22.

GET GLOWY. Mix a pinch of metallic eye shadow into face lotion to warm your complexion. Our pick: American Beauty Copper Glow, $15.50.

Louis Vuitton Fall Winter 08/09 Fashion Show


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1vxAg4fQDMo&feature=related

Roberto Cavalli

Roberto Cavalli was born in Florence, Italy, in 1944. He attended the Florence Art Academy. He is a Scorpio. He is the grandson of Guiseppe Rossi, the great Florentine impressionist painter. Cavalli started his career in 1965 when he was 21 years old, painting T-shirts with a girl he knew from art school. Then he set up a factory to do the printing, with a few young men, then by accident in the early 1970's he began to paint on skin which was the first time anyone had done it. The girls who summered at Capri and St. Tropez adored it. Italian Vogue took notice of the young Cavalli. In 1977 Roberto was invited to judge a Miss Universe contest, and met one of the contestants Eva who became his wife and mother of their 3 children. She started by helping with the knitwear garments and now helps with all the projects at the Cavalli factory. For 20 years Cavalli has been making sexy garments which have been very successful in Italy and other European countries. His Spring 2002 collection, shown in Milan, covered a long catwalk with stripes and roses, mixed up with his usual wild animal prints, slashed, decomposed and embroidered endlessly. In 1999 the opening of a store on Madison Avenue, in New York, whipped up great momentum. All the New York girls started wearing Cavalli jeans. Hot girls in hot places identified with the high glam sensibility of Cavalli's clothes. His clothes were worn by the stars of TV's hot serial "Sex and the City". Elton John was in the store for hours picking out clothes. Over 750 labels presented menswear collections in the Palazzo Pitti, Florence, Italy, for Fall 2002. Cavalli was the show's favourite saluting his 20 year career. Cavalli himself opened a brand new boutique in the city's historic centre. Roberto Cavalli is now one of the favourite designers of show business celebrities like Jennifer Lopez, Mary J. Blige and Lenny Kravitz because of his whole strong approach, his colour, sexuality and boldness. In Fall 2002, Roberto brought out his first fragrance. He was initially planning to call it Serpente, and in fact the bottle has the pattern of a snake's skin, but then he called it "Roberto Cavalli Parfum". It is as sensual as his clothing, blending sandalwood, citrus, rose and musk notes with the same verve as he mixes animal prints and florals on the catwalk. In October 2002, in New York, the Fashion Group International voted Cavalli as the Designer of the Year, at a glittering function attended by all the New York fashion celebrities. He accepted the award gratefully saying "This means America accepts me".

Ralph Lauren

birth place: Bronx, New York

Ralph Lauren was fashion aware at a very early age. By spending his hard-earned pocket money on expensive suits, Lauren became the best dressed 12-year-old in his neighbourhood. It wasn’t long before the young entrepreneur left his middle class Jewish roots behind him to set out on a quest to establish his very own fashion empire.Rather than study design, he completed most of a business degree and learned his trade through

born: 14-10-1939

evening jobs. While working at one of these jobs, he began designing wide ties and with a $50,000 loan, Lauren founded the company Polo Fashions in 1968. Polo went on to champion the ‘power suit’ of the early 80's in the face of strong competition from Armani. With expansion firm in his sights, Lauren branched out into women's clothing, sheets, towels and furniture.Through sheer hard work and exacting standards, Ralph Lauren has become the epitome of classic fashion, with brands such as Polo, Ralph Lauren for Men, Ralph Lauren for Women and even Ralph Lauren paint. His company is estimated to be worth a staggering $900 million.

Coco Chanel

born: 19-08-1883

birth place: Saumur, France

died: 10-01-1971

Designer Coco Chanel was born Gabrielle Bonheur Chanel in 1883, although she would often claim that her real date of birth was 1893, making her ten years younger. Her place of birth was also something that she sought to disguise. Coco was born in the workhouse where her mother worked, although she asserted that she was born in Auvergne.Her mother died when she was six years old, leaving her father with five children, whom he quickly farmed out to various relatives. Gabrielle adopted the name Coco during a brief career as a singer in cafes and concert halls, between 1905-08.Coco became the mistress of a rich military officer, and then a wealthy English Industrialist, and the patronage and connections that these men provided her with enabled her to open her own millinery shop in Paris in 1910. She had soon expanded to Deauville and Biarritz.Coco Chanel became the first designer to use jersey during the 1920s, and her relaxed, mannish clothes for women soon became very popular with clients, who were tired of the corseted fashions of previous decades.In 1922, she launched the fragrance Chanel No. 5, which remains popular to this day. Two years later Pierre Wertheiner became her partner (taking on 70% of the fragrance business), and reputedly her lover.

Christian Dior

born: 21-01-1905

birth place: Normandy, France

died: 24-10-1957

Fashion designer Christian Dior began his fashion career by selling sketches of hats to Parisians in 1935. He drew dresses too, but initially his hats were more in demand. Dior worked hard on his dress designs, though, and three years later he was employed by Robert Piguet. At the onset of war, Dior went to fight in the south of France. Returning to Paris in 1941, he worked in Lucien Lelong’s fashion house.With the war over and the world looking for something new, Dior established his own house in 1946, backed by the textile manufacturer Marcel Boussac. For his first collection, Dior created the New Look for which his fashion house became renowned. Its feminine elegance, with delicate shoulders, tight waist and full skirt, was inspired by the spirit of Parisian women. The opulence of his designs contrasted with the grim post-war reality of Europe, and helped re-establish Paris as the joyful fashion capital it had once been. In the 11 years before his death, Dior dictated European style. Each of his collections had a theme – the classic suit, the ballerina skirt and the H, A and Y lines that ruled the early 1950’s. Dior was first to arrange licensed production of his designs. Furs, stockings, ties and perfume were manufactured in regional centres across the world, spreading his brand name quickly about the globe. When he died suddenly in Italy, in 1957, Yves Saint Laurent, Dior’s assistant of four years, took over as head designer.

Dolce & Gabbana


Partners in life as well as business, this Italian design duo are renowned for their Fellini-esque, fetish-meets-feminine clothing, beloved by celebs from Kylie to Madonna.



Dolce and Gabbana are arguably the most powerful and influential designers of our time. Their clients include some of the best dressed people in the world, such as the Beckhams, Madonna and Sophia Loren. Stefano Gabbana was born on 14th November 1962, in Venice, Italy. Domencio Dolce was born on 13th September 1958, in a small village in Sicily. Dolce studied fashion design in Sicily and gained experience in his parents businesses. Gabbana, however, studied graphic design and gained some work experience in fashion, as an assistant in an atelier in Milan, where the pair first met in 1980.By 1982, they had started their first fashion consulting studio and, in 1985, they showed their first women’s collection in Milan, winning national acclaim. The collection was mainly homemade, and consisted of instructed designs and complicated systems of fastenings. Inspirational figures for the collection included Italian actresses Sophia Loren and Anna Magnani. Later signature designs would include corset dresses, gangster pinstripes and sexy black suits. However, it was a visit to Sicily at the end of the 1980s which was instrumental in emphasising their celebration of the curvaceous female form.The designing duo next tried their luck in Japan and signed an agreement with the Kashiyama group. In 1989 they opened their first boutique in Japan and two years later they were presenting their first men’s collection. Dolce and Gabbana are now fundamentally known for wanting to make women look “fantastically sexy”. Many of their designs are adapted from the feminist-era, before being glamorised and modernised. They describe their style as “sweet and sharp” and “New Millennium cool”. They were once quoted as saying they are mostly concerned with creating the best, most flattering clothes and sparkling trends. D&G began achieving long awaited awards in the 1990s and, in 1991, they were awarded the ‘Wollmark Award’ and ‘Best Fragrance of the Year’ in 1993. By the end of the 1990s it was reported that their sales were around $500 million per year. They have now become one of the world’s most successful ready-to-wear companies and are considered Hollywood’s number one choice of designer.The couple currently reside in a 19th Century mini-villa in Milan, with an apartment next door. They have also recently renovated one of their properties on the French Riviera.

Gianni Versace

born: 25-12-1946
birth place: Reggio Calabria, Italy
died: 16-07-1997



Gianni Versace’s clothes are known for their striking colours, materials and cuts: sexy to the point of vulgarity.Like all good Italian boys, Gianni Versace learnt from his mother, who taught him first to cut and then make clothes, as she ran a small tailor-shop to support the family. Gianni loved designing the clothes himself and soon he was selling them out of his mother’s shop. He moved on, furthering his understanding of the rag trade by working as a fabric buyer. At 25, Gianni moved to Milan, where he designed his first prêt-a-porter collections for Genny, Complice and Callaghan. It was in a collection for Complice that Gianni’s own name was first included in the brand name.The first Versace boutique opened in Milan’s Via della Spiga in 1978, and Gianni sold his own designs alongside other labels, though soon he was outselling all the other brands. In the early 1980s, with the global economic boom and fashion for lavish, strongly stated clothing, Versace’s ‘look’ flourished and his boutiques spread around the world. In 1985, Versace added the Instante label to his fashion empire. Similar in style to Versace couture, it was targeted at a less affluent and younger crowd. The Versace label continued to grow and, with new collections, Gianni would only vaguely sketch out his ideas, before trusting his assistants to make the ideas wearable. In July 1997, to the shock of the world, Gianni was found shot dead in front of his mansion in Miami, Florida. His killer was allegedly a serial killer who later took his own life. Control of Gianni’s empire passed to his brother Santo, and his sister Donatella became the new head of design. However it was Donatella’s 11-year-old daughter, Allegra, who was the soul heiress of Gianni’s fortune. In terms of his personal life, Gianni met Antonio D'Amico, a model, in 1982. The couple embarked on a long-term relationship that lasted until Versace's untimely death. During that time Antonio worked as designer for the Versace sports line.

Luo Takes the Long Way Home

Designer Zheng Luo has 200-plus locations of her retail outlet, OmniaLuo--and they're all in China, where she is trying to become a household name to. But her company is listed acquired a Nasdaq listing in January (it currently trades over-the-counter) and this week, she's in New York for her first Bryant Park runway show.
Participating in fashion week "will help increase our brand awareness in China, which is our main focus," says C.F.O. Michelle Liu.
Luo is showing a playful, almost girly, spring collection late this afternoon. There's a gauzy pink dress inspired by cherry blossoms and a tunic that jingles golden bells. Luo says these designs combine Chinese and Western influences to appeal to international buyers. The tunic, for example, has broad shoulders to fit Western body types, but the bells are etched with traditional Chinese patterns. "Not too much Chinese," she says. "Not too traditional. It's modern, younger."
Since late 2007, OmniaLuo has made a particular push to increase its share of the "golden collar" market, which it identifies as a growing class of Chinese businesswomen who earn more than $25,000 a year. Traditionally, these customers have favored international brands, such as Louis Vuitton and Fendi.
"The moneyed at the moment will always opt for well-known luxury foreign brands that have more status," says Tony Bednall, director of Raffles Design Institute in Beijing. "The Chinese brands are not really breaking internationally or gaining strong recognition."
But OmniaLuo is trying to change that. Zheng Luo says she hopes to open a store in New York City in 2009 and is talking with partners about expanding into the Middle East and Russia. But the company is also trying to keep sight of its mainstream customers--the bulk of China's $25 billion women's apparel market.
OmniaLuo's growth so far is promising: revenues increased fivefold from 2006 to 2007. And figures for the first half of 2008 jumped another 2.5 times compared to the same period in 2007. But overall sales totaled only $7.9 million last year, versus, say, nearly $100 million for Donna Karan International. OmniaLuo's stock price hasn't closed above $2 since its January listing and has languished at $1.30 in recent weeks.
Luo denies that an economic downturn is setting in. "China has a lot of potential to grow," she says. "The future is great."
Bednall is more cautious in his outlook. "There are a lot of talented designers in China," he says. "But there will be one designer who breaks out and gets true, global recognition."
"Who knows," he adds. "Maybe it will be OmniaLuo."

A portrait of Yves Saint Laurent in his office in 1964.
Photograph by: Marc Riboud/Magnum Photos








Worn by Fame

Yves Saint Laurent changed women's fashion but the glory took a terrible toll on his fragile psyche.

In Memoriam: Yves Saint Laurent


Yves Saint Laurent, the man who changed the way women dressed, died in his home on the rue de Babylone in Paris. He was 71. There were no official reports of what he died from, but for me, it was obvious: 50 years of fame. Born to a French lawyer and his stylist wife in Oran, Algeria, in 1932, Saint Laurent had dreamed of becoming a fashion designer since childhood. At the age of 17, he moved to Paris and studied at the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture fashion school. In 1954, he shared the first prize of the prestigious International Wool Secretariat award; his co-winner was Karl Lagerfeld. Saint Laurent was then hired to work as an assistant to another titan of fashion, Christian Dior, and his profound talent was quickly recognized. When Dior dropped dead of a heart attack in 1957 at the age of 52, Saint Laurent was named successor. He was a mere 21 years old. His first collection the following year was such a smashing success that American fashion journalist Marylou Luther wrote, "The king is dead. Long live the king!" But Saint Laurent's shyness, reticence, and fragility was greater, evidenced by the famed photo of him leaning out the window of Dior after a show as his fans cheered in the street. "He was already grave, distant, full of poetry, and mystery," Pierre Bergé, his longtime business partner and companion, told me. Two years later, the French government informed Saint Laurent that he had to fulfill his military-service duties. The night before he left, he confessed to his friends who had gathered at a villa in the South of France for a farewell weekend that he couldn't face it. He was the world's most famous fashion designer and a homosexual: He would never survive in the military, he feared. After 19 days of boot camp, Saint Laurent suffered a nervous breakdown and was sent to the mental ward at the Val-de-Grâce military hospital in Paris. For six weeks, Saint Laurent was subjected to drug and shock therapy, and he dropped to 80 pounds. Finally, Bergé managed to get him released.

Leaping Lizards!

Sales of expensive handbags made of rare, exotic leathers are defying the downturn.
The Company is a fashion retail organization offering assortment of luxury fashion apparel, shoes, accessories, jewelry, cosmetics and gifts.

Home foreclosures are up, the market is down, unemployment is high, and consumer spending is flat. These days, nobody wants to buy a five-figure handbag—or do they? In the middle of the financial malaise, one of the accessories market's most expensive sectors—exotic handbags—are actually on the rise, say some in the retail industry. Satchels made from rare and pricey crocodile, python, and lizard skins—with price tags in line with everything from a monthly mortgage payment to the price of a small car—have been selling well over the last 12 months, even in recent tumultuous weeks. "Women are starting to think of something that looks a little timeless and isn't so identifiable the way the 'it' handbag of the minute was," says David Wolfe, a trend forecaster at the Doneger Group in New York. "They're looking for things that maybe have fewer details and gimmicks but [with] recognizable quality. The exotic skins certainly deliver that. Anybody who looks at those bags knows that they're pricey."Not everyone is convinced that four- and five-figure handbags are here to stay."Retail prices have increased tremendously over the past four or five years," says David Lamer, former president of Lambertson Truex and a managing partner at retail consultancy BBD Consultants. "It's primarily the result of exclusive product, but particularly due to the weakness of the dollar."Luxury shoppers typically lag the broader consumer in spending reductions during a downturn, but the current conditions are hitting everyone--and prices that seemed high but acceptable a few months ago aren't digestable any longer. "What was once considered expensive has quickly become insane," Lamer says.Retailers say the most successful exotic bags are offered in classic shapes, like clutches and totes, that won't date the way a trendier bag might. "In a tough economy, when people do shop, they think about the investment they're making," says Lou Amendola, chief merchandising officer at Brooks Brothers, which is experiencing double-digit growth of its exotics business this year, despite the tough retail environment. "They say, 'I will have this for several years to come,' rather than buying something that may just be the fad for the season."The market for these goods is strong enough that companies are offering new products. Even brands that have had great success with logo-driven pieces, such as Louis Vuitton and Coach, are offering bags in skins like alligator and python, with price tags that head into five figures."There is 100 percent a move towards things that are less branded," says Lincoln Moore, who oversees handbags at Saks Fifth Avenue. "Our business in [logoless bags by] Bottega Veneta and Nancy Gonzalez, to name a few, is very good right now. The customer is saying, 'I don't want to be vulgar. I don't want to be obvious about the money that I'm spending if I am spending money.'"With traditional shapes and no flashy logos, many of these bags have the "old money" look of a piece that's been in the closet for years. "The vintage feel of things is interesting, because in times of uncertainty, people always go back to when they felt safe," observes Santiago Gonzalez, president of Nancy Gonzalez. Although exotics brands are doing well, more attention is being paid to making sure each bag offers substantial value. At Nancy Gonzalez, where sales over the last 12 months are up 30 percent, some designs have been tweaked to make them more cost effective to produce. (On one style, for example, the number of inner gussets, which are expensive to manufacture, was reduced.) At Brooks Brothers, prices are kept down by a sales structure that eliminates wholesalers by using its own stores as the bags' sole point of distribution. Presumably, with even luxury customers feeling the economic downturn, investing in one long-lasting but expensive crocodile bag instead of an armful of trends can actually feel like, well, a bargain. "People will not downgrade," Gonzalez says. "They're not going to buy a less-expensive brand of bag. They're not going to buy a Zara jacket if they were wearing Chanel before—they're going to buy five Chanel jackets instead of 10."